Norwegian Mountains

"Stemmesteinene" in Sedalen, Oct 23-24 2005

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Introduction

"Stemmesteinene" are two large neighbouring rocks found by Lake Stemmevatnet (freshwater reservoir) on Landåsfjellet. Locals have probably named these rocks, but for the time being I have given them a fairly logical name.

Nov 1 2005, Rune Mjelde Blomberg sent me an email, informing me that the largest of these rocks is named "Jaktasteinen" (source: Bergensernes Fjellverden I map C3)

The tallest one (5-6m high) is fairly challenging for the novice climber, whilst the smaller one is quite trivial. They are easily recognized, located along Stemmevatnet's west side.

The rocks by Stemmevatnet

The rocks by Stemmevatnet

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The tallest one - why not call it "Store Stemmesteinen" - is a fine rock for bouldering. Non-climbers will have problems getting up here. I managed to get up on the rock's flat side, facing southwest. I threw a rope across, anchored the rope on the other side and climbed up while being attached to the rope via a prusik sling. I then rappeled down using the prusik. I really wanted to take a picture from the top, but it was a "bumpy ride" and I didn't want to take chances with the camera.

Being a freshman in this trade, I did a lot of clumsy stuff. I brought a thin rope which didn't match well with the prusik sling. The prusik did not arrest the fall, but sent me down in a slow and controlled manner. I wasn't able to find the time (I was running out of daylight) to anchor the rope in my end, causing the prusik to move the rope upwards. As opposed to move along the rope. I had to move the knot with my teeth and was happy that I was alone up here.

I had 5-6 attempts (I either fell or had to lean on the rope) before I reached the top. For every attempt, I started from bottom, making the sure it wasn't the rope that got me up. I should have brought a rappel device, but had to manage with the prusik. In any case, I was very satisfied with having ascended this rock.

Map

Map

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The lowest one is a trivial rock. Access is from the side facing the bush. Although I have passed these rocks numerous times, I never made any note of them. Until my friend Petter noticed that I was visiting big rocks in Bergen and suggested I should visit these rocks as well. I climbed the lower one Oct 23 2005, and came back today - Oct 24 2005 to climb the tallest.

Pictures from Oct 24 2005

1. My route up the largest rock (599KB) 2. The anchor (406KB) 3. The moon seen earlier in the day (345KB)

The rocks, Oct 23 2005

4. Approaching the rocks (215KB) 5. The tallest rock (221KB) 6. The tallest rock (147KB) 7. The tallest rock (229KB) 8. The lowest rock (174KB) 9. The lowest rock (260KB) 10. On the lowest rock (377KB) 11. The lowest rock (254KB)

More pictures from Oct 23 2005

12. Bergen panorama from Ulriken (687KB) 13. Bergen downtown (268KB) 14. Paraglider (121KB) 15. Vasslifjellet (526KB) 16. View from above Turnerhytten (1668KB) 17. View from above Turnerhytten (982KB) 18. View from above Turnerhytten (1015KB) 19. Ulriken seen from above Turnerhytten (201KB) 20. View from above Turnerhytten (668KB) 21. View from above Turnerhytten (703KB) 22. Troll above Turnerhytten (229KB) 23. Ulriken tower (246KB) 24. Ulriken tower (281KB) 25. The Sedalen lakes (203KB) 26. Bergen view from Landåsfjellet (486KB)

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