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La Ruta de los Volcanos
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A must-do hike
If you ever go to La
Palma for hiking, La Ruta de los Volcanes is a must-do hike! The 17,1km
route runs through an area with a number of volcano tops - between Refugio El
Pilar and Fuencalente (Los Canarios). The route across the most
significant tops extends the distance with approx. 4km.
The easiest way to
go is to start at Refugio El Pilar (approx. 440m) , as the route gradually
descends towards Fuencalente (approx. 720m). And this is the route that Anne and
me followed.
La Ruta de los Volcanos
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2015 Kick-off
Anne and me decided
to kick off 2015 in a proper way; La Ruta de los Volcanes! A classic route that
looked absolutely fantastic in Google Earth. To ensure that we were good and
ready for this, we went to bed at 10pm on New Year's evening. I know, that
sounds ... yeah. But that's the way it was and when our driver
Carlos (from the
Roque de los Muchachos trip the day
before) picked us up 8am on Jan 1st, we were indeed good and ready...
We chose taxi
because bus services on Jan 1st were scarce or non-existing. At 9am sharp, we
arrived at Refugio El Pilar and quite frankly - we didn't expect to see
any other hikers on this trip.
Anne is good and ready at Refugio El Pilar
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Pico Birigoyo and Montaña la Barquita
After 1,6km on the
main trail, we got to a
signpost that pointed to Pico Birigoyo (1807m).
After all, we were not here for valley hiking so the decision to turn left was
quite easy...
At 9:48am, we
reached our first top, and had excellent views towards Caldera de
Taburiente in the north;
On Pico Birigoyo
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After some pictures, we continued 0,7km along the
volcano ridge to the
slightly higher Montaña la
Barquita (1809m - 10:02am). Given the fact that the map height for the next pass
was 1706m, we could now claim our first top with 100m primary factor (PF) for
the day...
Montaña de los Charcos
Our next goal was Montaña de los
Charcos (1852m - 10:36am) - yet another minor top along the route. First we hiked 0,6km down to the
1706m pass, then
1km up to the
main top - passing point 1815m along the way.
Fog was now moving in and the
wind was considerably colder and stronger. But even with occasional fog, the
trip was still fantastic!
On the way to Montaña de los Charcos
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Pico Nambroque and Hoyo Negro
The landscape was
gradually getting more interesting and now were on our way to the highest tops
along the route - Hoyo Negro (1936m) and Volcan de la Deseada (1945m). After
descending from Montaña de los
Charcos, we joined the main trail and had two other hikers ahead of us.
Near Hoyo Negro, I
took a detour and visited
Pico Nambroque (1922m -
11:07am - and a minor top). Anne decided to sit this one
out. The 0,9km detour took me 13 minutes and along the way I got the impression
that the hill behind Anne was higher. And according to the map, I was right -
1936m. There was however no name, so I decided to call it Hoyo Negro - from the
crater. After all, the high point was found along the crater rim.
With the next pass
being 1835m (map height), Hoyo Negro was the 2nd top that had 100m PF. What a
great start of the new year for peak baggers!
Hoyo Negro crater
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Montaña Del Fraile and Volcan de la Deseada
The landscape now got a bit
"rougher" and we saw some awesome
contrasts between lava and forest.
The first top (yet another minor one) was Montaña Del Fraile (1908m -
11:51am). In order to reach the top we had to take another detour from the main
route.
Montaña Del Fraile
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Just "up the road" was Volcan de
la Deseada (1936m - 12:06pm) - the highest point along the entire route. The
primary factor was approx. 579m as the PF saddle is point 1366m - just south
(and above) the LP-3 tunnel.
The east top was
clearly higher than the west top, but we decided to visit both sides of the
volcano. The wind was quite fierce up here and the raven who decided to hang out
with us had either incredible fun or big problems during landing and take off. It was
hard to tell...
On Volcan de la Deseada
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Montaña Los Bemejales and Volcan Cabrito
On the way down from
Deseada, we passed more hikers and they seemed to be coming and going in all
directions. Some were hiking in t-shirt and shorts, and I was freezing to the
bone from the sheer sight of them...
We soon left the
main trail in order to cross Montaña Los Bemejales (1875m - 12:06pm). We
were now back on the ridge - the morro - and no more prominent tops were
awaiting.
But still, it was fun to hike across them.
Volcan Cabrito
(1859m - 1:06pm) was different from the others in the sense that
the descent was
tricky. The semi-steep hillside got increasingly more difficult with all the
pine needles on the ground. My sneakers just didn't get a grip. I could have
gone skiing here!
And eventually, we
were back on the motorway!
The motorway
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Caldera del Bucaro, Volcan de San Martin and Montaña Pelada
We didn't follow the
"motorway" for very long, because all of a sudden -
Caldera del Bucaro
(1694m - 1:46pm) appeared on our right-hand side. It was yet-another-minor-top,
but we simply had to visit it. The top didn't have a map name, so the name comes
from the volcano crater.
Ahead of us was a
far more interesting top - Volcan de San Martin (1597m, 2:07pm) - a
perfectly cone-shaped volcano top. The main trail ran on the west side of the
top so the top involved yet-another-detour. The wind was so fierce
on top that
we had problems standing upright. Fortunately, the top gave some shelter against
the wind.
The descent back to
the "motorway" was quite fun, as it involved a long descent in volcanic rock
that produced smoke on our tail...
The final top -
Montaña Pelada (1441m, 2:34pm) gave us the strongest
wind yet and it was
such a delight to get away from the summit. I pitied the ones stuck onboard an
airplane, descending towards La Palma in this altitude...
Descending Volcan de San Martin
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The remaining part
of the hike went through the forest. A number of hikers came up from the
Fuencalente side and from other sides too. While it was still great to be on the
trail, we both started looking forward to reaching Fuencalente and eventually,
returning to the hotel for a nice shower, a glass of wine slash beer, you
know...
At 6:02pm, we
reached a bar in Fuencalente (there weren't many open bars around) and learned
that the first bus was - like - 3 hours away. If running at all. Some had
told us that buses were not running on Jan 1st. To be on the safe side, we
called Carlos and gave him the name of the bar. 30 minutes later, we were on our
way back to Los Cancajos in Carlos' back seat ;)
Fuencalente (Los Canarios)
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Trip Facts
The trip was 21km in length. Vertical gain
approx. 1300m and total hiking time was 7 hours. Pictures
The pictures were taken with a Canon EOS 60D + Canon EF-S
18-200mm 3.5-5.6 IS |