Norwegian Mountains, Møre og Romsdal


Kvanndalstinden, 1744m
Torshammeren, 1680m


Fylke/Kommune : Møre og Romsdal county/Rauma municipality
Maps : 1320-II Eresfjord (Statens Kartverk, Norge 1:50 000)
1319-I Romsdalen  (Statens Kartverk, Norge 1:50 000)
Primary factor : Kvanndalstinden: 174m
Torshammeren: 15-20m
Hiked : May 2013
See also :
Romsdalshorn Blånebba
Breitinden Gjuratinden
See also : Other Møre og Romsdal  mountains on westcoastpeaks.com


Kvanndalstinden

Kvanndalstinden
(Click for larger image)

 

Introduction

Kvanndalstinden extends the Venjetindan ridge towards the south and is one of  most spectacular peaks in the Romsdal region. Arguably, Slingsby claimed that this was the steepest mountain in Europe! It is also one of the 7 peaks which makes you a Fjellkonge (mountain King) or Fjelldronning (mountain Queen) if you've completed this magnificent list of peaks;

  • Dronninga, 1544m
  • Gjuratinden, 1712m
  • Kongen, 1614m
  • Kvanndalstinden, 1744m
  • Romsdalshornet, 1550m
  • Store Trolltind, 1788m
  • Store Venjetind, 1852m
     

In order to get to the summit, you need to climb! Although the upper part of the mountain is very steep, the climbing is easy - Norwegian grade 2-3. But this does not mean that this is an easy top to reach! The ascent from Vengedalen (the normal route) is approx. 6km and includes crossing rugged terrain and a glacier, exposed scrambling and easy climbing.

If the snow can to be trusted, this is also a nice spring ski-trip. The critical sections are the ascent from Vengedalen and up to Olaskarsvatnet, and the traversal of the couloirs before Torshammaren. The snow has to be reliable here.

The guiding companies state that this is a 9-11 hour trip (summer/autumn) and that no previous climbing experience is a requirement. That said, some experience with this type of mountain terrain would probably come in very useful...

Torshammeren is an extraordinary pinnacle located closed to Kvanndalstinden. The climbing is approx. 20 meters, graded 2-3 (easy). The final move to the top is the hardest.

 

Torshammeren

Torshammeren
(Click for larger image)

 

Primary factor:

Kvanndalstinden (1468m, UTM 32 V 441054 6929760) has a primary factor of 174m towards the higher parent Venjetindan. The saddle (32 V 440502 6929932) is found in on the lowest point on the ridge between Kvanndalstinden and Søre Venjetind. Ref. Norge 1:50,000 (20m contours), the saddle is within the range 1560-1580m, interpolated to 1570m.

 

View from Kvanndalstinden

View from Kvanndalstinden
(Click for larger image)

 

Google map

Google's interactive map. You can zoom, pan and click on the markers.
 

 

Route descriptions

This disclaimer is regarding all of the literature and instructional guides posted on the westcoastpeaks.com website. These instructions are guidelines only, and should not be used in lieu of common sense or judgment when attempting any of the actions involved or instructed. Westcoastpeaks nor myself will not be liable nor will it indemnify any form of compensation to anyone who has injured, harmed or even killed themselves or others while following any of the instructions written within the website. It should be noted by any persons willing to undertake any of the instructions provided that mountains offer varying levels of risk, regardless of size or incline. Risks to be considered are as follows but not limited to: wild animals, weather, the terrain, bad judgment, inappropriate or insufficient equipment, improper training or experience and of course, bad luck...

 

Route 1: Venjedalen - Kvanndalstinden (summer/autumn)

Difficulty : YDS Class 4 (Norwegian 3)
Exposure : Yes
Comments : Advanced trip. Scrambling, climbing, glacier crossing.
Distance : Approx. 12,5km total
Time : Approx. 9-11 hours (guided)
Starting Elev.: Approx. 710m
Vertical Gain : Approx. 1100m (total)
Map of the area
Map of the area
(No Javascript)
Map of the area
Map of the area
(No Javascript)


This route description is valid per September 2014

Access

(all distances are approx. distances)

The starting point for this route description is Åndalsnes. The nearest city with an airport is Molde.

From Åndalsnes, drive east along RV64 towards Isfjorden and Molde. After approx. 5km, turn right (32 V 437442 6938380) towards Liabygda. Drive 750 meters and turn right (32 V 438052 6938653) again at the second Liabygda signpost. Continue 2,9km to the southeast and turn right (32 V 440070 6936794) at the Venjedalen signpost. Pay toll (NOK 50,- for passenger cars) and drive 7,3km to the upper parking (32 V 438409 6930219) in Venjedalen. 

Many of the Romsdalen peaks require an early start, and it's quite common that hikers and climbers come late in the evening and sleep in their cars or in tents.

 

Venjedalen

Venjedalen
(Click for larger image)

 

The route:

 

The route

The route
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ASCENT

A visible path runs from the Venjedalen trailhead and up to Lake Hornvatnet. From the lake, the route runs southwest - in the direction of Halls Renne on Romsdalshornet. The path upwards is partly marked (small cairns and red paint) and relatively easy to follow. You will cross a few slab sections. Be careful if they are wet and slippery.

At. approx. 1040m, the route turns east and crosses Olaskarstinden's north ridge at approx. You then arrive at Lake Olaskarsvatnet. Follow the north shore and aim for the Venjetindan ridge a bit north of point 1257m. Pay attention to sporadic cairns along the way.

Cross the Venjetindan ridge from approx. 1280m to 1400m. You now have a clear view of the glacier in front of you. One option is to walk below the glacier front and enter the glacier closer to the mountain massif. Chances are good that you get fewer crevasses to deal with.

 

The GOOD side of the glacier

The GOOD side of the glacier
(Click for larger image)

 

Once on the glacier, aim for the lowest point on the ridge between Venjetindan and Kvanndalstinden. Getting OFF the glacier might or might not be trivial. There is a - reasonable obvious - scrambling route that you can follow. This route is more pleasant during ascent. Some may choose to rappel this route upon return. You can also follow the glacier higher up and enter the ridge closer to S. Venjetinden, but you will have to scramble across some steep humps before you reach the lowest point on the ridge.

Once on the main ridge, you have approx 0,3km of nice walking and easy scrambling before a 20 meter pitch makes the rope come out for most people passing through here. The lower part is easy, but the upper part is YDS class 4 climbing.

Next comes a fun leg which lasts all the way to the point where you begin the real climb towards Kvanndalstinden. A distinct spire (in lack of a better word) forces you to bypass on the right-hand side. You will traverse a few couloirs before you are back on the main ridge. The route is well worn and easy to see. Just pay attention to slippery rock in the couloirs.

Then you get to the base of Torshammeren. The sheer sight of it is enough to scare the daylights out of normal people, but it is actually quite easy to climb. Especially if someone already laid out the rope before you. The climb up to the summit block is easy, but the final move is in the YDS class 4 range. Take the time to reflect on this astounding piece of rock while your climbing partner lowers you down...

Just a stone's throw away, the climb to Kvanndalstinden begins. You will see that the path continues towards the grand wall, but that's because the rappel route ends a bit further away. The first pitch can be done without a rope if you're comfortable with this type of terrain. This is even true for the descent. For those who have climbed Fingeren - I would argue that the climbing is a bit similar. 

The final rope length begins at a distinct ledge, follows some convenient steps which leads straight into - and up along the rappel route. The handholds are brilliant! A bit higher up, the route turns sharp right and this is the crux of the pitch (YDS class 4). Once you reach a small ledge, the final meters to the summit are easy.

The summit consists of two "blocks" (in lack of a better word) and is very exposed. Thread carefully! There is a box with a summit register on the block closer to Venjetindan. Many famous Norwegian climbers have left their signatures in this book...

DESCENT

 

Rappel from Kvanndalstinden

Rappel from Kvanndalstinden
(Click for larger image)

 

It should not come as a big surprise that the descent route is the same as the ascent route. The only exception is the rappel, which runs approx. 40-50m straight down the face. But because of the many excellent handholds, a knot on the rope is also subject to get stuck pretty much everywhere, so a good advice would be to divide the rappel in two. The first rappel is approx. 35 meters, the second is 5-10m (confirmation is needed on the second).

With a 60 meter rope, you won't reach the second rappel point. Barely. So, instead of setting up a new rappel point, you can rappel down to the ledge where your climb to the summit began, and descend unroped from here - if this is something you're comfortable with.

You will need another rappel down the 20 meter pitch further down the ridge, and optionally another rappel to get safely down to the glacier.   

 

Kvanndalstinden and the glacier

Kvanndalstinden and the glacier
(Click for larger image)


 

Pictures and Trip reports:


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