Norwegian Mountains, Møre og Romsdal

Sukkertoppen west ridge, Jun 26 2006

Back to the main Sukkertoppen page and detailed information for this route.


This was "fun for the boys" evening. My colleague Terje Bergset and I headed to Sukkertoppen via "Trollråsa" (the name I have assigned, while waiting for an older name to surface). I had no clue about how Terje would respond to steep terrain, but being a ski-jumper, I assumed his psyche was -much- stronger than mine. I was right on that part...

On the upper part of the route, we reached a cliff wall that can either be passed to the left, or climbed straight up (class 3). This climb took us to a 5,5m high wall, which Terje immediately took fancy on. The route difficulty was in the range 5.6-5.7 (I assume). There was a ledge half-way, but it slanted downwards. There was no direct exposure if we stayed on the left side, and we would have to be quite unlucky in order to fall all the way back to the foot of the cliff.

No, not THAT way, I said, as it was not part of the route. But Terje wouldn't listen. He "pitched" it on the first attempt (no ropes involved). I tried to follow, but when I discovered he had used grass as handholds, I pshyched out. For now. I knew immediately that I would come back, clean up this grass and climb it. This pitch has now been named Ikke DEN veien (Not THAT way)

Very content about his efforts, Terje now pointed at every possible route on the steep cliffs surrounding us. I had to bring him back to reality, and we continued scrambling the established route. We reached the top 18:30PM, after having spent approx. 50 minutes on our way from the Aquarium. The large vessel Queen Elisabeth II was heading out Storfjorden, into the sunshine out in the ocean. A nice view, it was.

On the way down, we earned "extra credits" for passing under the big rock that marks the beginning of the steeper section of the west ridge. I guess I got "extra, extra credits" for climbing backwards, back up again. Still, the "credits" didn't make up for the solid defeat I suffered on Ikke DEN veien. We could have spent the entire evening on this ridge, but it was time to head home.

Pictures

Map: We followed the green route on this trip

0. The west ridge (green route)

Up to the steeper section

1. Traversing the forest (307KB) 2. Advancing to the next level (374KB) 3. Looking for clues (301KB) 4. Approaching the cliffs (271KB)

Ikke DEN veien!

5. The easier part of the cliff (186KB) 6. Terje follows (405KB) 7. Terje goes climbing .. (264KB) 8. .. and Terje succeeds (274KB) 9. Terje celebrates the climb (171KB)

The final section to the top

10. Heading upwards (175KB) 11. The final push (307KB) 12. Fine climbing style.. (248KB)

Views from the top

13. A fantastic light (88KB) 14. On Sukkertoppen (144kB) 15. Terje signs the logbook (135KB) 16. Queen Elisabeth II (178KB) 17. Descending (141KB) 18. I always wanted to do this.. (147KB)

The "Extra credit" rock

19. I lead on (378KB) 20. Terje follows (360KB) 21. Is your head bigger? (294KB) 22. Going backwards, back up (403KB)

Descent

23. Heading down boulder (373KB) 24. I love this route (198KB) 25. Vessel@sea (123KB) 26. Easy scrambling (373KB) 27. Not THAT way!! Never mind... (344KB) 28. Terje is airborne (347KB)

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